Romance, War, Survival: A Correspondent Looks Back on His Experience in East Africa

To be fair to my wife, Courtenay, it was scorching that day. And as we trudged along, filthy and exhausted (our typical condition), surrounded by rebels waging a guerrilla war in one of the hottest places on earth, Ogaden Desert in Ethiopia, we realized we had run out of water.

“Don’t be a wimp,” Courtenay hissed. “Do something.”

“Like what?” I croaked.

She stopped walking and her forehead creased, which is always a bad sign, like a horse’s ears going back.

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Photo by Vanessa Vick for the New York Times.

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Jeffrey Gettleman in East Africa.
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